In Brief
– In order to come up with a perfect blazer, some of the things that must be taken into consideration include; blazer length, the sleeves length, the collar, the body and the shoulders.
When talking about suit fitting, a lot of factors need to be taken into account. For a suit to meet the standards of a well-tailored suit and give the desired look, two most important components must be taken into account.
- The Blazer fitting
- The Trouser
This article will delve into the blazer and give insight as to what you should look out for in a Blazer.
Gone are the days when men would just pick out anything and walk out the door. As a matter of fact, most men nowadays are more concerned about their physical appearance and would like to look the part.
So what are some of the things that you should pay close attention to, to achieve the perfect look?
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Button stance
The blazer’s second button from the bottom (the top button) should lie just above your belly-button, never below. The rule of thumb is no more than about an inch above and never, ever below. Otherwise, it’ll throw off your body’s proportions and you’ll look really odd.
Collar
The collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck. All of these should touch lightly, without significant gaps in between.
If there’s a gap, it’s too loose. If there’s bunching just under the back of the jacket collar, it’s too tight or the stance of the jacket is off.
Shoulders
You want the shoulder seams of the blazer to end where your shoulders end – where they start curving down to your arm, basically. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders anywhere. The shoulders should lay perfectly flat, with no divots or rumpling or pulling on the shoulders.
Blazer sleeve length
While wearing the blazer, when you bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should be about ¼” above the top of your hand.
This length allows for a little bit (¼”) of your shirt sleeve to peek through. If your sleeves are longer, a tailor can easily fix that. If they’re shorter by more than an inch, ditch the jacket, the sleeves can’t be let out enough to fit properly.
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Length of the blazer
The length of your blazer will dictate how “balanced” your upper body is to your lower body. The blazer should end around mid to lower crotch. Mid-crotch if you’re under 5ft 9inches, lower than that if you’re taller than 5′ 9″.
The body
With the top button fastened (never the bottom button), the blazer should lightly hug your midsection, but not feel tight or constricting. It shouldn’t be pulling at the button, creating an ugly “X”. The X means it’s too tight.
If it’s roomy around your stomach/waist area, you should have a tailor take in the sides of the jacket so it fits properly. This is a very easy and common fix for a tailor to do. Remember: For tailoring purposes, it’s better to have a jacket that’s slightly too big in the body than too small.
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